What questions should I text a private seller before seeing a used car?
Use the free tool — Used Car Decoder
Why text before you drive over
A listing like "runs great, minor cosmetic, title in hand, serious buyers only" sounds fine, but every phrase in it means something. Texting a few questions first can catch red flags before you waste a trip. It can also catch title-washing clues, which is one reason to ask for the VIN early — the VIN is what unlocks the official recall check.
Ask about the paperwork
- Is the title in hand, and is it in the seller's name?
- Is there a lien on the car?
- Can you send the VIN? You'll want it before you meet, not after.
Texting can't confirm title or accident history for you. That takes a paid report like Carfax or AutoCheck, or the NMVTIS.
Ask about the car's history
- Is there service history? Ask what's missing from the ad if it isn't mentioned.
- Has the car been in an accident?
- If the ad says "minor cosmetic" or "runs great," ask exactly what that means — those phrases can hide more than they say.
Ask about price
- Is the asking price firm or negotiable?
- Why is the seller selling?
- Compare the number against a typical price band for that year and mileage before you agree to anything. A price band is a typical market figure, not an appraisal of this specific car — actual value varies by region and condition.
What texting can't tell you
- It can't replace seeing and driving the car, or a pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic. Bring an inspection checklist with you or hand it to your mechanic.
- Recall status has to be checked directly — the seller's word isn't enough. Confirm it yourself at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
- Title and accident history need a paid report (Carfax/AutoCheck) or the NMVTIS — a text exchange can't verify either one.
This is not legal or financial advice. Confirm title, lien, and recall details with the appropriate agency or a professional before you pay anything.
What to do next
Used Car Decoder reads your own listing and VIN — nothing invented, nothing guessed. Paste the ad and the VIN and it flags the red-flag phrases, shows what's missing from the ad, gives a typical price band for that year and mileage, lists the questions to text the seller, and gives you the inspection checklist to bring. It also links you straight to the official NHTSA recall check. The first decode is free.
Used Car Decoder is an informational tool. It cannot see the vehicle, verify the VIN, or access title or accident databases; recall status must be checked at nhtsa.gov/recalls and history through a paid report (Carfax/AutoCheck) or the NMVTIS. Price bands are typical figures and vary by region and condition. It is not affiliated with any seller, dealer, marketplace, or manufacturer.